Despite the fact that modern cars are no longer as susceptible to rust as they used to be, thanks to the large number of synthetic inserts and the use of special protective and insulating materials, the danger is still around the corner. It is therefore in our interest to take action in good time and, if possible, to prevent rust from appearing. Let’s take a look at the main measures that can be taken, depending on how serious the car rust damage is or is feared to be.
THINGS YOU’LL NEED
- WD‑40® Multifunction
- Paper tape for masking
- Sandpaper of different grain size
- Rag
- Rust converter
- Flexible steel spatula
- Bodywork filler
- Auto body primer
- Paint spray can
- Abrasive paste
- Polishing wax
- Protective varnish
EXAMINATION OF CAR RUST
The first, fundamental activity to be carried out is a careful and meticulous examination of all the metal parts of the bodywork that could be most at risk from rust. Generally speaking, the most at-risk parts are those that are most likely to be hit by flying mud, earth and various materials while driving. This means all parts of the mudguards near the wheels, the front of the car and the lower rear part. Particularly at risk in these areas are parts with dry bends and folds, but also mouldings and areas below the seals, where the sheet metal does not dry as quickly as bare parts. Depending on what you find, you can proceed in different ways.
AREAS WITH RUST MARKS
On these parts, once it has been ascertained that the rust has not already affected the metal, it is enough to treat with WD-40 Multifunction, which eliminates stains, protects the metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates and lubricates blocked parts, and eliminates and protects any surface from humidity. The product also acts on tar stains which can deteriorate bodywork. In any case, any surface that appears to be at risk can be treated with the same product to prolong its good condition.
EXPOSED CAR RUST AREAS: REMOVAL AND SANDING
Once however the rust has affected the metal, lifting and detaching the paintwork, more energetic and thorough action is required. First of all, the part must be isolated from nearby parts with paper tape and appropriately positioned sheets. Use medium-fine grain sandpaper (120-240 grain) to work on the area concerned until you reach the metal, removing all the rust and loose paint. Then clean with a cloth. If there are rusty areas that cannot be sanded down, it is advisable to apply a rust “converter” that combines with the rust to form a protective product. The following steps do not change.
BODY FILLER AND FILLER PRIMER
Using the flexible steel spatula, apply the body filler on the points where you have worked in order to level off the surface. When the filler is perfectly hardened, rub with sandpaper no. 200-240. Finally, after cleaning the part well, two successive coats of primer can be applied with the spray can. The primer must be applied on the filled parts, blending the application towards the areas with the tapes so as not to create a “step” that will be visible and difficult to level when the work is finished. The primer must also be sanded, but with extra-fine emery paper (no. 600-800) until a perfectly smooth and continuous surface is obtained. At this point, the surface can be cleaned with a cloth and the masking paper removed.
FINAL PAINTING
If the area affected by car rust is small, the car can be repainted using spray paint the same colour as the car (if the area is larger, it is advisable to take the car to a body shop as spray cans do not solve the problem). Pass over the area several times, starting to spray outside the surface and finishing after leaving it. Allow drying between one coat and another and apply a second coat, then a third. When finished, remove the masks.
POLISHING
When the paint is perfectly dry, two important finishing operations are required: first a coat of abrasive paste applied with cotton and then a polishing wax (or polish). In this way, the retouched part will be perfectly matched with the rest both visually and to the touch. The last step is to apply a layer of transparent protective varnish to the retouched part, again using a spray can. This has the dual function of making the surface particularly shiny and creating a strong barrier against the weather with a view to protecting against rust. It is advisable to use paints (always spray) that harden considerably and are long-lasting.
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